Thursday 5 January 2012

Take 1: Rihanna’s Perfume Advert – Reb’l Fleur





Rihanna is one of the most successful female artists in the pop industry to date with her success currently building on 5 albums, over 11 million followers on Twitter and over 150 awards. Rihanna clearly represents a massive influence on varieties of audiences around the world. All her success led to her first perfume ‘Reb’l Fleur’ being released in February 2011 in the United States and August in the United Kingdom. The product was mostly marketed on social networking sites such as Facebook and YouTube, which are considered as mainstream media due to technological determinism in the 21st Century. The majority of young people gain information and general updates through E-Media platforms and come to notice Rihanna’s new perfume therefore she took the opportunity to mass market her product through platforms where her target audience would notice it the most.
The advert ‘Reb’l Fleur’ reflects two personalities, two characters and two images in which the audience can interpret in different ways, and create an attachment to one of those sides, Reb’l or Fleur. This was the unique selling point in which Rihanna claimed ‘Are you a Reb’l or Fleur?’ The advert incorporates these two sides and begins with the ‘good’ image ‘Fleur’. According to Todorov’s narrative theory, the advert follows the pathway of equilibrium where Rihanna is surrounded by feathers creating an idea of freedom, a disequilibrium where she allows herself into having attachments with many men and a new equilibrium when she discovers her real identity and escaping to her reality.
Rihanna is in the centre of pink feathers, a stereotypical colour for females, in which she seems happy, calm and free with the use of slow movements and positive facial expressions which are represented through close up shots. The feathers are iconic because they represent an enigma code developed by the theorist Barthes for beauty and goodness in which Rihanna strives to be and currently is with her ongoing success. This alternative ideology of success in women is what teenage girls aspire to be like, hence taking greater admiration, being desensitised into the advert making them believe, buying this perfume will make you stand out from the crowd and be a success. Rihanna’s positive outlook represented by positive images generates these aspirations by her audience. 
The variety of shots in this scene, from bird view shots to close ups of facial expressions allows the audience to witness different angles in which all are positive and calm. The non diegetic music is parallel to the imagery on screen allowing the audience to be captivated with 100% understanding of her success, and not allowing any other personalities or thoughts to arise in this scene. The two opposites, freedom vs. Controlled, good vs. Bad and positive vs. Negative is a continuous theme represented throughout the advert. This is initially shown through sunlight and snow as the scene carries on, representing an oxymoron image.   
You can interpret this idea by contradicting it with the fact that Rihanna is wearing a light pink dress matching the feathers. This continuity in colours suggests that she is hiding her identity by blending in with her surroundings and being less independent in her actions. This could suggest that there is an ‘anchor’ to her success representing a second rebellious personality in which she is trying to break free. Further on in the advert we come to witness a male figure in a suit. Is he the anchor to her success? At the sight of the man, Rihanna runs out of the feathers, in a maze full of hedges as she approaches her opposite reflection of a ‘rebel’ where the quote ‘Bad feels so Good’ arises. The use of a maze suggests that Rihanna continuously has to make decisions in her career in order for her to achieve the success she has, which comes along with a variety of obstacles she has to face. This independence, drive and decision making processes are attributes in which women hope to achieve; subliminally this is generated through purchasing the perfume to give the buyer confidence. At the reflection, the music changes to continue into a more sinister and harsh sound making it parallel to the scene on screen.
Rihanna has now entered the rebellious side of the advert and the perfume. The camera follows her pathway with many shots of her facial expressions shown through many mirrors as she constantly watches her own reflection and the reflection of the male figure following her. The use of many mirrors connotes constant questioning in the identity she portrays in these scenes. Image and identity coincides with Lacan’s psychoanalysis theory where he suggests an individual develops a sense of their identity by being able to recognise their own reflection and understand how others perceive them. In this case, Rihanna look’s through the mirrors, develops a sense of herself by recognising her actions alongside the male figure. She then judges herself against that. Her expressions are shown to be worried, nervous and scared of the life she is now living and allowing men to follow her. In one particular shot, her hand reaches out to the camera which suggests she is reaching for freedom, wishing to escape this world. As the man gets to her, he covers her eyes followed by another two pairs of male hands. Close up shots of her body is shown, with sexual facial expressions, which suggests that this rebellious life she suggests is having casual sex with many men.
In this scene, you could interpret it within the Marxist theory because it claims that the bourgeoisie which is owned by men hides the realities from proletariat. This is shown when several men cover Rihanna’s eyes to hide the reality she is in which reflects the exploitation of women in which many feminists suggest.
She could be proposing that the second personality to her perfume unleashes your feminine desires with men, attracting their attention and allowing yourself to be controlled achieving the dominant ideologies of women and approving a patriarchal society. Using Laura Mulvey’s theory of ‘visual pleasure and narrative cinema’ the close ups of female body parts are implemented for a male gaze to attract a secondary audience to develop a discourse between men in society.
The music fades out as a heart beat comes in representing a sign of nervousness and anxiety as Rihanna’s heart beat increases. This stops the flow of music and the series of events. The music starts to re-enter in a rewinding sound which is parallel to the scenes rewinding back. The use of a backwards montage reflects that the rebellious personality she experienced is not to her liking and finds it ‘bad’ therefore trying to escape and enter the free successful life she lived which represents the personality ‘fleur’ of the perfume which she prefers. Referring back to Lacan’s theory, Rihanna has seen her perception, and willingly decided to modify it to satisfy her outside perceptions, which are the audience she appeals to. This makes the advert biased because instead of embracing both personalities, it allows the audience to understand that Rihanna belongs in the successful life she lives and prefers the ‘flowers’ of life. This makes the target audience feel they are more willing to buy they perfume due to this biased approach as they want to aspire to be the successful Rihanna.
The advert ends with Rihanna back in the circle of feathers embracing the idea of success and power she has, living a free life as a woman promoting an alternative ideology with the use of beauty industry influencing audiences to go out and by the perfume to achieve something by wearing the perfume.
Overall, the beauty industry, exaggerates their products into high value cinematography in order to entice the audience into believing that the product will make your life better and give women especially a better appearance. This relates to one of the uses and gratifications; personal identity which suggests that audiences creates part of their own identity by things they feel are attractive in the media, and in some cases this shapes people’s values, norms and fashion. Extending this idea that the media creates, the copycat theory can also be applied due to celebrities representing a high class, powerful figure in which is further exaggerated, audiences feel that by copying their actions, they will receive part of that success however, the media exaggerates and fanaticises these ideologies making seem reachable, when in factual fact they are merely impossible. Many adverts in the beauty industry create false hope, yet still get women desensitised into buying their products, similar to Rihanna’s perfume.  

Task 2: Book Reading and Bibliography

The Beauty Myth: How are beauty images are Used
 The Media and Body Image
How the Media Shaped Women
***Need to find link inside book or look in Library
Consumer Culture, Identity and Well Being

Task 3: Historical Texts

·         Young Love Perfume
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tlk2V9kx5w
·         The Joy of Living with Fragrance http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xq8LyvH3P5o



In the past, the beauty industry represented different classes, for example in the 15th century; blonde hair represented a ‘sign of beauty and high class’. Individuals would purposely dye their hair in order to gain more status and power which evidently shows that the beauty industry has been around for a long time, and influenced the identification within class systems.
The three texts, ‘Young Love Perfume’, ‘The Joy of Living with Fragrance’ and ‘Coty Lipstick’ were all produced in the 1960s. Briefly in this decade, it was the turn of women and how they started to become less domestic; trying to pursue careers and independence. Through research, BBC made a short video on the freedom for women in the 1960s; 26,000 women in this decade went to study higher education and ‘advertisers celebrated these new women’. This crucial change between being a domestic housewife and being independent led women to improve their appearance which changed the dynamic of what men looked for in women. These appearances were generated by the increase in using women as protagonists in advertising and enhanced other ‘ordinary’ women to aspire to have greater status. This idea was represented in the one minute advert ‘The Joy of Living with Fragrance’.
The advert is set in one room; with many couples all dressed smartly, men in suits and women in long dresses. Emphasising on the use of ‘long’ dresses elicits the innocence and respect women had in the 1960s compared to the 21st century where women show off more flesh and have become more sexualised. In this historical text, the woman wearing a fragrance enters the room, and the narrator quotes ‘what is there about her that turns everyone’s heads?’ By analysing these scene, the camera uses a long shot to get a full appearance of woman, who looks sophisticated and described as ‘lovely’ doesn’t look at all different to other women in the room. There are no exaggerated features on the protagonist to make her stand out hence the narrator purposely narrates in detail in order for target audience to understand situation. This is a key comparison to Rihanna’s perfume advert, there is no narration, the mise en scene, music, and clothing tells the full story without audiences having to listen. This difference is due to the changes in society and what people now see as acceptable. In the past, women being domesticated, looking after children and providing food while men hunt for food and work was the society’s culture, and being a sexualised woman in public was frowned upon, however as decades went by, privileges were increased.  For example, in 1928 women were allowed to participate in the Olympics, followed by the women’s Army Corps in 1940s and lastly Geraldine Ferraro to be the first woman nominated for Vice President in the 1980s.  More and more successes were arising which transferred into the beauty industry allowing women to show off these assets and achievements representing a change for feminism in society. Even though adverts were conservative and innocent such as ‘Young Love Perfume’ where men and women were mature and loyal to one another, they still represented a big change for women within the beauty industry.
In the historical adverts, the general consensus was to sell the features of the product rather than the protagonist whereas in Rihanna’s advert, the centre of attention is on her and her actions, predominantly sexual.  In ‘Coty Lips’ again the narrator explains the different shades on lipsticks, and men and women are dancing hand in hand respecting one another. It became evident that in all historical beauty texts, a male figure was always present to supplement the woman’s actions, whereas in Rihanna’s advert, her actions control the force between the opposite sex representing her independence and dominance over them, which reflects the society in the 21st century. Some would argue that white middle class men still are the leaders but times are constantly changing especially with flaunting women’s femininity.
Overall, this whole change and comparison between texts and society in the past and present represent a zeitgeist culture in which beauty and other popular culture reflect the spirit of the age. As society changes, popular changes to accommodate it to ensure everything is parallel to avoid judgement.  

Task 4: Additional Web Research


·          ‘Why are standards of beauty being imposed on women?’
·         ‘Women who are insecure about their bodies are more likely to buy beauty products, new clothes, and diet aids.’
·         ‘Media images of female beauty are unattainable for all but a very small number of women.’
·         ‘Jean Kilbourne argues that the overwhelming presence of media images of painfully thin women means that real woman’s bodies have become invisible in the mass media. The real tragedy, Kilbourne concludes, is that many women internalize these stereotypes, and judge themselves by the beauty industry's standards.’

·         ‘Tween girls are mini-fashionistas who are pretty and sexy and who are obsessed with boys, friends, shopping, pop stars and celebrities.’
·         ‘Young girls in particular are targeted by marketers, and the focus of these ads – beauty, sexuality, relationships, and consumerism.’
·         At an age when girls “could be developing skills, talents, and interests that will serve them well their whole life, they are being enticed into a dream of specialness through pop stardom and sexual objectivity.”

·         ‘Media portrayals of women often leave much to be desired, especially advertising images of women.’

·         TBIO is a counterbalance to the damaging and unhealthy messages about beauty that bombard us in media, film, advertising and music every day. The funds we raise allow girls worldwide to define their own Inner Beauty and honour it through healthy media. We also increase awareness about the negative effects of harmful media messages.

·         ‘That mesmerizing mass purveyor of aspiration, desire and self-awareness regularly airs commercials these days’
·         Shreffler, "Advertising is aspirational," she adds. "It's who we want to be, a lifestyle we want - not always who we are."

·         ‘Corporate-controlled media shapes our identities as workers and consumers, selling an image of success and happiness tied to the consumption of products’

·         ‘Found that mainstream pop's increasingly raunchy output has an insidious effect on younger consumers.’

·         ‘The lady on the telly tells you that her face cream will make you look like Scarlett Johansson. The next, you discover that it's not true.’

·         ‘Marketers pay millions of dollars to celebrity endorsee hoping that the stars will bring their magic to brand they endorse and make them more appealing and successful.’
·         ‘Celebrity sources may attract more attention to the advertisement than would non-celebrities or in many cases, they may be viewed as more credible than non-celebrities’
·         ‘Definitely celebrity endorsee influence consumer buying behaviour and brand building.’

·         ‘Special forms of celebrity endorsement affects consumers’ brand attitudes’

Task 5: Critical Investigation Detailed Plan

To what extent does the beauty industry advertising promote dominant ideologies that female audiences are influences by and adopt?
Introduction
·         Range of beauty products having exaggerated conventions, settings, clothes, lighting;
o   All are glamorous
·         Celebrity endorsements creating consumer aspirations
o   Desire, ambition, fashion, body image
§  ‘brand and celebrities can be described as mutually beneficial’
·         Why do females adopt these styles?
o   Desensitised into ‘fake’ realities (theory)
§  ‘Make our choices on the basis of those semi conscious or hidden memoires’
o   Attract men, male gaze (Laura Mulvey)
·         Example Rihanna’s perfume Reb’l Fleur
1ST PARAGRAPH
·         Dominant ideologies of women
o   Domestic, sex objects, controllable
·          ‘Women spend most of their time either pregnant or producing milk.’
·         ‘Women contribute to the important business of providing food by growing vegetable, milling grain, making clothing and shelter’
§  NEED DOMINANT IDEOLIGIES QUOTE OF WOMEN

2ND PARAGRAPH
·         Alternative ideologies of women
o   Powerful, successful, entering workforce
o   Change in historic society
§  ‘26,000 women in this decade went to study higher education and advertisers celebrated these new women’
3RD PARAGRAPH
·         Effects of advertising – conventions
o    Consumer behaviour is influenced by: demographics, psychographics (lifestyle), personality, motivation, knowledge, attitudes, beliefs, and feelings.
o   (Sandhusen, Richard L.: Marketing (2000). Cf. S. 218)
·         The effects on self image
4TH PARAGRAPH
·         General discussion on how consumers are desensitised into ‘fake’ realities   
o   How women aspire to be like the protagonist on screen
o   Feminine, attractive, develop male gazes (Rihanna ad)
§  ‘Women who are insecure about their bodies are more likely to buy beauty products, new clothes, and diet aids.’
5TH PARAGRAPH

·         History of advertising
o   Developments, conventions, social/political change
o   How these effected women in advertising
§  Compare Rihanna and Young Love perfume adverts
§  Elicit the differences in MIGRAIN
§  Relate to social change – feminism, rights, economical differences

6TH PARAGRAPH

·         Examples of other celebrity texts
o   Cheryl Cole, Eva Longoria – L’Oreal
o   Estee Lauder
o   Beyonce – Heat, Pulse Perfume
o   How these portray aspirations and desire for female audiences

Conclusion
·         Outline and evaluate findings, people who become obsessed

Task 6: First 2 Paragraphs of Critical Investigation

The conventions, representations and ideologies the beauty industry advertises, elicits aspirations, desires and celebrity endorsed images which generate fake realities and materialised societies. The beauty industry tends to ‘invite our gaze’ into a glamorous attainable life, however subliminally they allow female consumers to believe ‘that there is room for improvement in a woman's appearance.’  Advertising desensitises consumers into believing the beauty products will enhance femininity, attract a male gaze (Laura Mulvey) and achieve dominance in the 21st century, all in which are ‘on the basis of semi-conscious or hidden memories.’ Modelling attributes the protagonist represents in adverts are greatly enhanced when a product is celebrity endorsed or the product is of their own. Celebrity images in magazines, television and websites consistently remind women about the ideal life therefore ‘women see other women in entertainment who are "happy, famous, beautiful, and sexy," they will want to emulate them.’ In some respect, women come to understand the processes of achieving such a dominant powerful image in which the ‘portrayal is so unrealistic.’

Over many decades, stereotypical views and ideologies of certain groups tend to stay the same when mass media produce texts. In some respect, the representations created by powerful media institutions fail to understand the change in society, and are afraid of change due to the risks and controversy it may cause. Institutions believe that ‘informing and teaching its citizens, helps democracy move toward its ideal state’, which is why beauty advertising avoids challenging certain stereotypes in order to continue to forward democracy into an ideal state. In an evolutionary psychological aspect, ‘Women spend most of their time either pregnant or producing milk’ which represents a historical view in the 1950s, which was subject to change 10 years later. However this is contradicted when brands are celebrity endorsed, as female protagonists such as Beyonce and Rihanna represent a powerful, successful and determined woman in the 21st Century. Practically, this was illustrated when, Lily Allen under the Chanel umbrella to promote their handbag range in 2009 added a touch of European sophistication’ which shows that celebrities can challenge the dominant ideologies of women in beauty advertising. By challenging the stereotypes of women using celebrities; female consumers can identify themselves with opinions they have in reality, and generate aspirations in which celebrities endorse. In an evolutionary psychological aspect, women ‘Women spend most of their time either pregnant or producing milk.’